While the fashion flock has headed across the pond for the runways of Milan and Paris, we’re recapping the major fashion themes we just saw in New York—and there is lots to love. Designers delivered collections full of fantastic American sportswear pumped up with great trends and a fresh attitude that will make for exciting shopping come fall. The biggest news was the neutral color palette. Here's a summary of what’s to come for fall.
Neutral color palette:
Rich camels, cool greys, classic navies, calm ivories and strong blacks rule the runway. With a palette this neutral, true design became the star of the shows resulting in stronger silhouettes, amazing textural fabrics, the return of the pantsuit, a cavalcade of outerwear and much more.
These aren’t plain, pinstriped boardroom productions. Pantsuits are sexy for fall. The news is in the cut of the jacket or the pant silhouette. Watch for soft draping to counter strict tailoring. Modern jackets have asymmetrical and wrap styles with seamed or folded details. Boxy, waist-length jackets paired with pleated pants. Unexpected pant shapes include jodhpurs and harem pants.
Fall fabrics were out in full 3-D force on NY runways. Watch for rich, textured fabrics such as matelasse, brocade, velvet, nubby tweeds and other menswear fabs, fuzzy shearlings, extreme cable knits, loopy, fringe-y yarns, and sturdy double-faced wool. Dimension also played out in the details of faux-fur sleeves, hoods or hems.
Designers kept things interesting by adding a layer of shine to an otherwise neutral color palette. Embedded stones, crystals studs, encrusted glitter, tone-on-tone and even matte sequins added a touch of bling to nearly every collection. Elements of shine were often placed strategically on shoulders, sleeves or lapels.
Wide leg trousers:
After seasons of second-skin leggings, designers loosened up and offered a modern alternative—the wide-leg trouser. Higher waists elongate the silhouette. Lean and fitted through the hip and thigh and cut from beautiful, drapey fabrics make for a sexy, ‘70s vibe. The bootcut pant has the slightest flare of the hem for a less extreme silhouette as seen at Alexander Wang, Phillip Lim and Vera Wang.
Sweater dressing never looked so good in looped yards, hook rug fringe as well as in pieced and patched textural combinations. There were tribal-inspired patterns, over-sized shapes, geometric blocked patterns along with classic luxurious knits to layer to your heart's desire.
Strong outerwear season:
3.1 Phillip Lim
You’ll need a veritable wardrobe of coats for fall. With so many great options you can’t pick just one. Sleeveless coats. Razor cut, crumpled cashmere (from Michael Kors. Gotta have it!) Capes and ponchos, luxe hooded anoraks and more. Replace last season’s motorcycle jacket with an amazing shearling for fall.
Longer hemlines emerge:
It should come as no surprise—after seasons of micro-minis—that longer hemlines should emerge. There were fluid maxi lengths in interesting prints at Peter Som. Transitional asymmetric hemlines that paved the way from short to long at Phillip Lim and BCBG, delicate fabrics played against masculine menswear at Jason Wu and knife pleats added movement to menswear patterned soft silk at Rag n Bone. While the longer hemlines made headlines, short skirts haven’t disappeared entirely.
Layers, layers, layers:
Rag & Bone
Fall took on a nomadic turn through the layering that was present in nearly every collection. Softly draped suiting was layered with knits. Slinky jersey tops paired with deconstructed cargo pants. Urban travelers piled updated plaids on top of plaids. Sweaters were layered over dresses and leggings. Leg warmers added an extra layer—just so. Shearling jackets wrapped over filmy dresses. Speaking for myself, I'll need a bit of practice to get all this layering right come fall.
And that's that. NYFW Fall 2010 in a nutshell. We've loved covering all the action for you, and call us crazy, but we're already looking forward to spring!