Signing Off

New York Fashion Week ended yesterday. We had fun sharing it with you. Thanks for joining us!

Bye for now,

Gina, Pamela, Debbi

Oscar de la Renta Show

Dressed up with citified polish describes Oscar de la Renta's collection for fall. The makeup was refined, the hair was formal. He showed lots of dresses and skirt looks along with a few suits and closed the show with two stunning crinoline ballgowns (see Pamela's Oscar post for a pic of one).

Show music included Mercy Mercy Me by Marvin Gaye. Love that song!

I shot some video of the finale. Here it is...

Backstage Beauty Fall 2009 - Phillip Lim

Nars was backstage at Phillip Lim, where lead artist, Ayako, International Makeup Director created a look centered around "poetic mod-rock" with wispy lashes and translucent matte skin. Phillip wanted the makeup to be fused together with a mod style and a touch of rock n' roll.   Skin was made flawless with the newly formulated sheer matte foundation (hits counters in fall 09) and a gentle sweep of shimmer was added to cheekbones to catch the light.  Then on eyes a Nars Glitter pencil in Danceteria was applied to lower lash line and smudged with fingers to bring out the gold shine. On top of that Ayako layered a new fall eyeshadow duo called Silk Road and used the rose gold with golden flecks side only. 

 

Here's where it gets edgy.  She cut a set of false eyelashes in half and apply to the outer half of the lower lashes.  Then with a wet eyeliner brush she used a matte charcoal eyeshadow and drew on lash shadows on outer half of lower lashes as well. Each of the models were wearing blunt bob wigs with really severe bangs and she wanted to keep the attention to the lower part of the eye.  Look how amazing the makeup was on the runway.   Glitter, lashes and rock n' roll, it all works for me! 

 

NARS Phillip Lim image

 

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Mixing Textures with Laura Mercier

One of my favorite beauty tips of the week was from the Laura Mercier team backstage at Pamela Roland.  It gets very hectic at times when 30 or more models need to all have their hair, makeup and nails done so quick easy steps to get the girls ready is what every makeup artist needs to be prepare to do.  Backstage they used a Mineral Powder to create a full coverage foundation, just grab a brush, dust across the face and instantly you've created the look of perfect skin. 

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I love how the matte texture of the mineral makeup is a contrast to the gold metallic powder they used on eyes. (the gold shadow will launch in fall 09.) It's like mixing textures in your wardrobe, everything just seems to looks richer.  It's like a great chunky gold necklace against a beautiful cashmere sweater, they make each other stand out.  That's kind of what you see in the picture below.  Beautiful flawless skin and gold glided eyes. For definition they used the black caviar eye liner and for color wild berry lip plumper on lips.  Rich colors, beautiful textures, it's starting to feel fall.

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Ralph Lauren Show

The standing ovation that Ralph Lauren received following his beautiful show was well deserved. I loved the soft palette of buff, taupe, antique grey, cream and vintage pink. Textures were juxtaposed - tweed with satin, silk charmeuse with velvet, and silk voile with calvary twill are some examples.

Some of my favorite pieces were a brown wool/cashmere patchwork coat, a honey silk charmeuse beaded dress and a sand suede shearling embroidered jacket.

The song playlist included the song A Man And A Woman by U2, which was also the song he walked out to greet the audience.  

Here's some video of the final parade that I shot with my camera...

Carolina Herrera Show

We loved this opulent collection! It was full of rich, sophisticated colors and textures, and of-the-moment silhouettes. The presentation had focused spot lighting, pretty hair and makeup, and beautiful music that all came together to create a stunning show. 

Here's the opening look...

CarolineHererra_start 

Here's the closing look...

Carolinehererra_end  

Zac Posen's Pianos

Entering the Zac Posen space at Bryant Park, we were met with not 1, but 5 Steinway pianos. The 5 Browns performed as models paraded down the runway. They're piano virtuosos who've performed at the esteemed Carnegie Hall and Lincoln Center. Zac's show was a dramatic experience, fitting for his collection based on turn-of-the-century romanticism mixed with the heightened feminine silhouettes of the 1940s. The 5 Browns took the bow with Zac who was linked arm-in-arm with his friend Paz de la Huerta.

Zacposen_modelwpiano_2 

Zacposen_end

Zacposen_bow2

Backstage Beauty Fall 2009 - Nanette Lepore

I can sum up this look using two words directly from Nanette herself.  She told Mac cosmetics, "bring gold."  She really wanted to create a bohemian look that worked with the golden hues and accents in her collection.  

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Eyes started with a pencil rather than a shadow to create depth and keep the eyes from looking too gilded.  First smudge Power Surge Eye Kohl close to lashes and layer Brassy Fluide Line on top of it. Cheeks are flushed in Laid Back Blush Cream and Diva lipstick is rubbed onto lips with fingers.  Here's a fun backstage tip, take a touch of the Brassy Fluide Liner and dab it in the center of the lips.  I know, it's an eye liner but remember makeup is suppose to be fun, it doesn't have to be about rules. 

Backstage Beauty Fall 2009 - Narciso Rodriguez

Backstage at Narcisco Rodriguez, Dick Page, Shiseido Artistic Director created eyes that had a bad girl edge to them.  He used a black pencil and really worked it into the upper and lower lashes actually using a brush.  He warmed up the pencil on the back of his hand (look at the pic below) and then dipped the brush into it.  Dick said, the line doesn't have to be perfectly smooth, in fact it can have a rough edge to it.

P1230896    

As each of the makeup artists would come over to have Dick check their work he would actually take a q-tip and mess it up a bit.  I love that!  He wanted that rough, broken up line on eyes. No pressure to have a perfect line around the eyes to look great for fall. His pro tip to create this look at home - line one eye at a time then smudge it a little with your finger. The warmth of your finger will break down the pencil a litte and give it that unfinished look. To complete this makeup use the S1 Accentuating Color stick on cheeks and lip balm to soften lips.

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Care Free Hair from Fekkai

I met up with Andrea Rodman, lead stylist for Frederic Fekkai at the Dennis Basso show and was almost relived to see free flowing hair.  All week one of the key trends has been the pulled back, sleek bun and sometimes a girl's just got to let her hair down

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Here he wanted to created easy, messy, sexy waves, who doesn't want that!  Sign me up!!

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Backstage Beauty Fall 2009 - Michael Kors

As if being backstage at the Michael Kors show wasn't enough, he had a dream team working hair and makeup.  On makeup, Dick Page, one of the most sought after working makeup artist in the business.  He's also Shiseido The Makeup Artistic Director and works on giving them color direction as well as develops new products.  On hair Orlando Pita, the go-to-hair guy for top fashion designers and celebrities around the world.  

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One of my favorite moments backstage is when I see new products being tested on models.  For Michael Kors, Dick wanted to used his new Shiseido Luminizing Satin Eye Colors that are launching in Aug.  He created a black smoky eye with texture by layering beige, grey and black shadows or as he named them Lingerie, Slate and Tar.  I had a chance to play with the lab samples backstage and they are so silky soft, these will be a great addition to the line.  

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To compliment these dark smokey eyes he used one of the new Shiseido Perfect Rouge Lipsticks in Almond Pink.  These lipsticks just hit our stores this month and have been written up in all the magazines.  The color you see in the tube is the color you see on your lips.  Believe it or not, the product he used on the cheeks is a new product he's working on for spring 2010.  He's playing with a few new formulas and wanted to give it a test run at fashion week.  That's all he would say, more to come on that.

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Hair was very structure to go with the fashion.  Orlando gave all the girls a deep side part to make it have an asymmetrical look to the hair.  His pro tip: sleek back hair, twist into a low bun, pin and spray on T3 360 Control Hair Spray and dry down fly aways with the blow dryer.  This hair spary is a heat seeking formula that works in harmony with any styling tool.  Orlando's tool of choice, T3 Bespoke Labs Evolution Hair Dryer.  This Ionic (new technology) blow dryer is the most advanced dryer available today and is the choice of top professional stylists around the world.  

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Proenza Schouler, dark knights

The Proenza Schouler designers have such a way with cut, color and fabric and this collection is no exception.  My favorite look was the bride, a delicate devore fabric that's never looked so tough.

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All hail Michael

Michael Kors did what only Michael can do—quintessential American sportswear pumped up in ultimate luxury and good taste. His palette was pure Michael: charcoal, olive, khaki, black punctuated with neons—safety orange, fuschia and acid green.  I couldn't take my eyes off of the girls' massive link chain chokers. It was Michael Kors on steroids –and I mean that as the highest compliment.  Chills!

 

Michaelkors_start 

 

Furhat

 

        

 

 

 

Michaelkors_pink_bigchain

Tory time

The Tory Burch presentation is one I always look forward to. First of all I love Tory.  We got to know each other when she did the Tory Tour with Nordstrom visiting 3 Nordstrom stores in 3 different cities in 3 days. It was loads of fun and customers turned out in droves to meet Tory and shop her line with her. She was also our guest at the CFDA Awards 2 years ago.

The unique mix of fashion, media, NYC social, retailers and celebs in the crowd is specific to Tory. I walked in just as she was greeting socialite Jamee Gregory. Already in the room were other Upper East Side notables including Elizabeth Lindemann. Glenda Bailey, editor in chief of Harper’s Bazaar was chatting with Pete and Erik Nordstrom, Alexis Bryan of Vanity Fair was taking in the scene and LL Cool J and Kanye West arrived (with their entourages) within seconds of each other.

The party and the collection made for the high energy event we all come to expect from Tory.  A super skinny camouflage jean lent the collection a cool edge. And Tory herself wore a dress everyone should own—a black sequin shift.

Here’s a pick of Tory and LL:

 

LL

 

And a couple looks from the collection:

 

Toryred

 

Torykhaki_4

The camo pant I love:

Toryburch_1camo  

Calvin Klein

Vogue editor at large Andre Leon Talley dashed backstage before the show to connect with Calvin Klein designer Francisco Costa. Just a few seconds later Andre emerged again. Calvin Klein shows are so unique—held in the company’s own show space, a sleek, all-white stripped down space, the perfect backdrop for Costa’s collection of spare, architectural designs. Fall 09 was 35 looks. 27 black, 5 ivory, 2 sulphite (which is an acid green) and 1 juniper. The boots were killer ankle length and strappy.  A few pics:

 

black felted wool single sleeve cutaway dress

 

Calvin backless

 

sulfite silk mesh geometric velvet applique cutaway dress

 

Calvinsulf 

 

 

boots

 

Calvin boots

Fashion Favorite Denim

Denim - still a fashion favorite - has been seen on editors, stylists and models throughout the week. Silhouettes range from super skinny and legging-like to flared and boyfriend. Watch for '80s style to influence the look of denim with new washes and treatments like bleached, acid washed, dirty washed and wax coatings that add a subtle glossy finish. Destroyed-look details also update. 

We love denim at Nordstrom! Check out these styles:

Current/Elliott 'The Boyfriend Jean' Stretch Jeans (Super Love Destroyed)

http://shop.nordstrom.com/S/3004952?refsid=243518_4&refcat=0%7e2376776%7e2374327%7e2376057%7e2379941&SourceID=1&SlotID=1&origin=related

True Religion Brand Jeans 'Joey' Distressed Rigid Jeans

http://shop.nordstrom.com/S/3017417?search=true&searchtype=keywordsearch

Rag & Bone 'RBW8' Skinny Stretch Jeans

http://shop.nordstrom.com/S/3019517?search=true&searchtype=keywordsearch

Current/Elliot 'The Legging' Skinny Stretch Jeans (Loved)

http://shop.nordstrom.com/S/3016698?Category=&Search=True&SearchType=keywordsearch&keyword=251071+in+All+Categories&origin=searchresults

Alice + Olivia Striated Skinny Stretch Jeans with Ankle Zip

http://shop.nordstrom.com/S/3022461?search=true&searchtype=keywordsearch

Here are some denim street shots...

Love this new-looking bleached denim legging.

Bleached denim#1 

Skinny, indigo wash denim...love it with her jacket and heels!

Marni Jacket#1 

Model Sessilee Lopez in flared jeans and a maxi coat.

Denim#3 (Sezilee Lopez) 

The boyfriend jean with layered knits. Love her granny boots!

Denim#2

Brian Reyes: ladylike

The walk-in music (literally the music being played when guests walk into the show space) for Brian Reyes' show this morning was soothing and serene--in a word: chill.   Completely apropos for his elegant, ladylike collection. Perfect for the “ladies” in his audience including Olivia Palermo, Olivia Chantecaille and Ivanka Trump as well as the lone Hollywood starlet: Rachel Bilson.

On another note, designers thank their sponsors, supporters and collaborators in their run-of-show, which typically lists descriptions of each outfit by model. Here’s a pic of Brian’s run-of-show showing all the companies he collaborated with. I couldn’t sense the models’ fragrance (?!), but I’m obsessed with Jo Malone, so I’m dying to know which fragrance they were wearing….

 

Sponsors

Anna Sui's independent spirit

Anna Sui counts the edgiest models, photographers, rock and rollers and indie actors among her friends and followers. In the audience at her show were models Karen Elson (married to rocker Jack White), Irina Pantaeva and photographer Ellen von Unwerth.

It follows, then, that Gossip Girl's independent spirits were there too: Taylor Momsen/Jenny sitting with editor in chief of Teen Vogue Amy Astley, and Jessica Szohr/Vanessa sitting with Andrea Linnet, Creative Director of Lucky magazine.

Jessica gamely did photos with all of Anna Sui’s young nieces and nephews from Michigan right on the runway before the show. Now I love her even more.

Here’s the art nouveau-inspired backdrop:

Sui

And a couple looks:

Anasui_start 

Anasui_end

3.1 Phillip Lim show

The live band and rock stage backdrop (see Pamela's post for pics) were indicators of Phillip Lim's music themed collection, which was evident in the clothing as well. 

Some of the great items he showed included dandy ruffle blouses, a silk leopard overprint burnout trench, navy merino wool track pants, blazers with peak shoulders, fur chubbies, a black knit crochet sweater coat and printed dresses. Many of the looks were styled with nude or black lace driving gloves.

Colors included dusty rose, ivory, navy, dove grey, mocha and evergreen.

I loved the eclectic mix of pieces and proportions. Check it out when you can. For now, here's some video of the final parade that I shot with my camera. It's rough, sorry....


Texture Mixes: Shine and Animal Prints

Texture mixes that include shine and animal prints have been on the streets and runways this past week. What's interesting is that these two trends always seem to emerge at times when neutrals like black, gray, navy and olive in apparel become important. The reason why is they add textural layers to neutrals, keeping them interesting and dimensional.

Lace is another texture to watch for. It's a newer idea and it's been shown on the runways in touches of black. Black lace works well for accessories like gloves or scarves or as a detail like an inset or applique on clothing. We've even seen lace footwear. 

Watch for:

Shine = paillettes, all-over or as a trim; metallic leather; glitter-like surface treatments on apparel, accessories and footwear.

Animal prints = python or leopard, mostly, for leggings, scarves, bags, knits, jackets and footwear.

Here are some animal pattern handbags to check out at nordstrom.com:

Roberto Cavalli Animal Print Twill Hobo 

Jimmy Choo 'Mandah' Animal Print Hobo  

Here are some street and runway pics...

Cynthia Steffe peacock print silk chiffon blouse and bronzed leather skirt

Cynthia Steffe#15       

Fashion week attendee in a navy paillette skirt paired with gray and black

BF Jacket#1   

Model Erin Wasson mixes it up!

Erin Wasson#1a 

Max Azria top with textural treatments

Max Azria#1

   

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